Sparrow Orlando
The newest and latest in a string of wine bar openings in Orlando comes to us from one of the most reliable and beloved restaurant groups here - the Good Salt Group. Owners Jason and Sue Chin opened their fifth concept, focusing on New and Old World wines, accompanied by a small bar menu. Chef Wendy Lopez is again at the helm, bringing many homemade items to the forefront, which goes above what most people might expect from a wine bar, but this isn't your average wine bar by any definition.
The Vibe
Anyone who has stepped foot inside a Good Salt Restaurant will always have the same reaction - each restaurant has its distinct look and is awe-inspiringly beautiful. While some restaurant groups hire outside professionals to achieve these reactions, Sue is the mastermind behind every detail. In 2019, I interviewed Sue about her talent and eye for aesthetics and design, and she remains true to her creative instincts: thrifting, antiquing, even spending months to source the right vessel for one dish. The details matter, and she is thrilled when people notice.
Her rooms hug you in many intentional ways: lighting, color scheme, pattern play, and sound.
During my visit to Sparrow, we briefly chatted about overstimulation and the seemingly small things that will affect our dining out experience to the point where we will hurry our experiece to leave and possibly never return. The music level is of the utmost importance, so you can carry on conversations with your dining companions without screaming stories and updates to each other. The lighting should be adequate to see, but not harsh on those sensitive to unnecessarily bright, unnatural lighting.
The room feels like a classic old-school lounge with cushy seats, cozy curved booths, and some banquette seating. Everything is comfortable, making you feel like you don’t want to rush the evening. For instance, we had plans to stay only for an hour and ended up staying two. The music fit the setting perfectly, retro and slightly jazzy with some modern tunes mixed in, but at just the right level so you noticed it, appreciated it, but didn’t compete with it.
While there is a bar, it’s not the focal point; the whole room feels like one big living room where all your friends could gather and have their own little area to mix and mingle, but you aren’t sitting on top of your neighboring tables.
Also, random but worth mentioning, there are no scents here—strong fragrances, incense, or diffusers. As someone who has been smacked in the face at some establishments by strong fragrances that give me migraines, I appreciate that isn’t the case here. It allows me to enjoy with all my senses intact while not diminishing my palate and ability to enjoy all the intended flavors of the drinks and food.
The Drinks & Food
To enter a wine bar without being a wine drinker may seem silly, but I knew that Sue and Jason would never have limited offerings that alienated people, and true to that, cocktails and mocktails were among the wine list. A sommelier is on hand if you are into wine and want suggestions.
I ordered the “You’re a Star Milk Punch”—vodka, lemongrass tea, passion fruit, cacao, lime juice, and a champagne float. The drink is simple, with no color or garnish, but it is full of flavor. My second drink was a mocktail. I didn’t get the name or take a picture of the menu, but I remember it was very refreshing with cucumber, and I loved it.
The food menu consists of plates and a few larger entrees that can be shared. Sue Chin mentioned they had several items on the food menu, but they wanted to pare it down to a select few and keep the offerings small and focused.
For food, my friend and I selected:
Mushroom "Pate"
Jambon & Beurre
Fries with the Spring Onion dip
Short Rib Pasta
Ice Cream Sundae
The croquettes pictured below were not a menu item but a welcome starter. They were so good that I hope they become a permanent item.
I would order all of these again except the Jambon & Beurre. Nothing was wrong with it; I just wouldn't be interested in revisiting it. It's like a deconstructed sandwich, but the veggies were too bulky (I'd prefer thinner slices so it was easier to layer with the meat and bread).
I wouldn't hesitate to order everything else again. The mushroom "pate" was earthy but also sweet, and even though I'm not someone who usually enjoys mushrooms because of the texture, the way it's prepared takes that slimy, often rubbery factor out of play so you can enjoy this creamy spread on Ciabatta.
A side of fries seems simple enough, but there are three accompanying dips to choose from, and I selected the Spring Onion dip. I loved the fresh herbs in this dip, so I used them on more than just these crispy shoestring fries.
The short rib ragu pasta is reminiscent of something your nonna would make for you on Sundays. Chef Wendy makes the pasta in-house, and the beautifully flavored shredded short rib has the perfect vibrant and salty bite every time. Don't miss this one.
There are three desserts on the menu, and we went for a simple old-school classic: an ice cream sundae. Again, this smoked vanilla ice cream is made in-house with a decadent fudge topping.
Can you see why I say this isn't your average wine bar?
Should I Go?
I would say Yes! This is a perfect place to have in rotation for a date night, or a spot to take out-of-town friends and relatives. It’s not overly boozy, so if there are non-drinkers, I don’t think they would feel uncomfortable or alienated. Food is as much the focus here as the drinks. This won’t be a “cheap” outing (our bill for two came to about $120), but you don’t have to try to enjoy a full meal if you are looking at ways to lessen the financial impact. It would still be an ideal spot to hit up if you have an event downtown or are just looking for a pre- or post-dinner drink.
What to know before I go:
This is not a place to bring kids. The small space cannot accommodate large strollers, high chairs, etc. It is a grown-up spot, and they even have a late-night menu.
The parking garage is attached to the building, and you can access street parking. Valet is coming soon.
There is a covered patio if you decide you would rather be outdoors.
Hours are Tuesday-Thursday 5-10 PM and Friday-Saturday 5-11 PM.
Reservations can be made online, and walk-ins are first-come, first-served.
Soft-opening begins on May 27th.
I was invited to preview Sparrow before its Soft Opening, but their team did not pay for our meal. All opinions are my own.